Stitchdown shoe



Feb. 23, 1943. ROSENZWEIG 2,312,124

STITCHDOWN SHOE I Filed Aug. 5, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Feb. 23, 1943. IROSENZWElG 2,312,124

STITCHDOWN SHOE Filed Aug. 5, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented F eb. 23,1943 UNITED STAT E S FT ii QFFICE STITCHDOWN SHOE Application August 5,1942, Serial No. 453,741

16 Claims.

This invention is an improvement in stitchdown shoes, and the principalobject thereof is to provide a novel lasted-in heel seat stitchdown shoein which the portion of the heel seat piece, underlying the shank, isinterlocked with the middle sole by passing same through a transverseslot in the middle sole adjacent the heel, thereby permitting use of awhole middle sole or three-quarter middle sole, the loose portion of theheel seat piece not only acting as a support for the arch, but at thesame time keeping the middle sole in proper position for thread lasting,preventing the middle sole from shifting to one or the other during saidthread lasting.

Heretofore, in the ordinary construction of lasted-in heel seatstitchdown shoes, that portion of a heel seat piece which extends beyondthe heel over the shank is loose, and if not fastened by cement or othermeans causes a bulge or loose portion within the shoe. Also, heretofore,during the process of thread lasting, the middle sole in the ordinaryconstructed stitchdown shoe is often pulled or shifted to one side orthe other, causing a non-uniform width at the shank.

My invention obviates the above undesirable features, and obviates theuse of cement or other extraneous means for securing the loose portionof the heel seat piece, my shoe having a transverse slot in the middlesole adjacent the lastedin portion of the heel seat through which theloose portion of the heel seat piece, overlying the shank, extends thusinterlocking therewith, portions of the middle sole at opposite sides ofthe slot being thinned by skiving or otherwise to allow for thethickness of the loose portion of the heel seat piece which overlies andunderlies the middle sole at opposite sides of the slot. By my method ofinterlocking the heel seat piece with the middle sole, however, theloose portion of the heel seat not only acts as an arch support, butacts as an anchor in maintaining the middle sole in proper place duringthe process of thread lasting.

Another object of the invention is to provide a novel lasted-in heelseat stitchdown shoe in which a three-quarter middle sole may beutilized, instead of a full middle sole, due to interlocking between themiddle sole and the loose portion of the heel seat piece. Without myinterlocking feature. a full middle sole would necessarily have to beused, as otherwise the use of a three-quarter middle sole in such typeof shoe would resultin an inferior contruction. My

the amount of leather used in the middle sole of such shoes, andmoreover provides a lasted-in heel seat stitchdown shoe having a moresubstantial construction than heretofore made.

I will explain the invention with reference to the accompanying drawingswhich illustrate one practical embodiment thereof to enable othersfamiliar with the art to adopt and use the same; and will summarize inthe claims, the novel features of construction, and novel combinationsof parts, for which protection is desired.

In said drawings:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view showing my novel lasted-in heel seatstitchdown shoe.

Fig. 2 is a plan view showing the upper applied to a last having theheel seat piece applied thereto, and showing the lasted-in portion ofthe upper in way of the heel seat, the portion of the heel seat pieceunderlying the shank being left unsecured to the last.

Fig. 3 is a plan view similar to Fig. 2, but showing a three-quartermiddle sole having a slot adjacent the lasted-in portion of the heelseat through which the unsecured portion of the heel seat piece extends,thereby interlocking therewith.

Fig. 4 is a longitudinal section on the line -A, Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a section similar to Fig. 4, but showing an outsole applied tothe middle sole.

Fig. 6 is a plan view of a full middle sole which may be utilized in myshoe, showing the slot therein which receives the interlocking portionof the heel seat piece, and showing the thinned or skived portions onthe underside of the middle sole, at opposite sides of the slot, foraccommodating the thickness of the interlocking portion of the heel seatpiece.

Fig. '7 is a longitudinal section on the line l'|, Fig. 6.

Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 3, but showing the full middle sole(Fig. 6) applied to the lasted upper.

Fig. 9 is a longitudinal section on the line 9-9, Fig. 8.

As shown in Fig. 1, the shoe includes an upper I having a middle sole 2of three-quarter length, and an outsole 3, the marginal portions of theupper being outturned as at la except in way of the heel seat andsecured by stitching S passing through the outturned portion la, themiddle sole 2 and the outsole 3, the stitching S extending from theshank portion at one side of the shoe around the toe and terminating atthe-shank portion at In making my shoe the upper l is applied to a lastL as shown in Fig. 2, and a heel seat piece of relatively stiff fibreboard or other suitable ma-' terial is applied over the heel seat. Theperipheral portion lb of upper I in way of the heel seat is inturned andlasted-in and secured to the underlying heel seat portion of the heelseat piece 5 by nails 6 or the like passing through the inturned portionlb of the upper and through the heel seat piece 5, the nails beingclinched in the usual manner, thereby securing the inturned portion ofthe upper to the heel seat piece 5. The portion 5a of the heel seatpiece 5 which underlies the shank is left loose however in thisoperation; and preferably the peripheral portion Ia of the upper Iextending from the shank around the toe of the shoe and terminating atthe opposite side of the shank is left' loose as-shown in Fig. 2, in thecustomary manner of making stitchdown shoes, the same being heldtemporarily by tacks I or the like, which tacks however are removedbefore positioning the middle sole on the last.

The middle sole 2, which in Figs. 1 to 5 inclusive is of three-quarterlength, is then applied to the last L,'the same being skived or thinnedas at 2a at its inner end in way of the heel seat. In the middle sole 2adjacent the inner end of the loose portion 5a of heel seat piece 5 is atransverse slot 21) of width conforming with that of the portion 5a ofheel seat piece '5, and preferably the middle sole 2, at opposite sidesof slot 2b, is thinned as at 20 on its underside, by skiving or thelike. as shown more particularly in Figs. 6 and 7 to allowforthethickness of the interlocking portion 5a of heel seat piece 5. 1

In assembling the shoe the loose portion 5a of heel seat piece 5 isinserted through slot 2b in middle sole' 2, as shown in Figs. 3, 4, 5,so as to interlock therewith, and whereby the outer end of loose portion5a of heel piece 5 underlies the middle sole forwardly of the slot 2b;and the same may be temporarily secured to the last L for the process ofthread lasting by tacks 8 or the like, the thread lasting resulting inthe row of stitches T which pass throughthe middle sole 2 and outturnedportion la'of upper I at the corner formed by the sides of the upper Iand the outturned portion la. The thinned or skived portions 20 ofmiddle sole 2 adjacent slot 2b allow for the thick nessof the'looseportion 5a of heel seat piece 5 adjacent the slot, thereby preventingunnecessary bulgingof the parts 2 and 5 resulting from the interlockingof said parts. As soon as the middle sole 2 has been thus applied theouter sole 3 is then secured to the middle sole 2 and outturned portionIa of the upper I in any desired mannerv such as by the stitching S(Figs. 1 and 5) passing through the outturned portion Ia of the upper,the middle sole 2, and the outsole 3. The heel 4 is then applied to theheel seat by nails or otherwise in the usual manner; and the peripheriesof the middle sole 2, outersole 3 and outturned portion Ia of the upperI then trimmedto uniform width. 7

By the above construction the middle sole 2 is thus interlocked with theloose portion 5a of heel seat piece'5 so as to prevent the middle solefrom shifting laterally on last L during the process of thread lastingof the stitchdown shoe, by which the row of stitching T is passed at thecorner 2,312,124 outturned portion Ia of the upper, the threads Tpassing through the outturned portion of the upper and through themiddle sole 2 to secure the middle sole to the upper I. By the aboveconstruction the outer portion 5a of heel seat piece 5 also acts as anarch support for the shoe as well as an anchor which maintains themiddle sole 2 in place during thread lasting. The interlocking of theparts 2 and 5 moreover obviate the use of cement or other extraneousmeans for securing the loose portion 5a of heel seat piece 5 to themiddle sole 2, and thus effects a saving not only of cement or otherfastening means, but also eliminates a cementing step in the manufactureof the shoe;' and the interlocking feature prevents any bulging at theshank caused by loose parts within the sole of the shoe.

The above construction moreover permits the use of a three-quartermiddle sole 2, effecting a material saving in the amount of leather usedin the sole of the shoe. Unless my interlocking feature were utilized,it would be necessary to use. a

full middle sole; otherwise the use, of a three-.

quarter middle sole in a lasted-in heel seat stitchdown shoe wouldresult in a very inferior construction. The use of my interlockingfeature,

however, while effecting a material saving of the amount of leather usedin the middle sole, in fact produces a shoe having a more solidconstruction than heretofore.

My invention, however, also permits the use ofa full middle sole asshown in Figs. 6 to 9 inclusive, the full middle sole 2.1: also havingthe slot 2b provided with the thinned or skived portions.

20 adjacent and at opposite sides of the slotreceiving the outer loose'portion 5a of heelseat piece 5, in the same manner shown in Fig. 3. Inthis modification the middle sole 23: extends reare,

wardly over the heel seat of the shoe, as shown in Figs. 8 and 9. Theout sole 3 and heel] may then be applied in the usual manner.

I do not limit my invention to the exact forms shown in the drawings,for obviously changes may 7 be made therein within the scope of theclaims.

formed between the sides of the upper I and the I claim:

1. In a shoe having an upper provided witha lasted-in heel seat; a heelseat piece secured to the lasted-in portion of the upper and having-ashank underlying the arch of the shoe; a middle sole provided with atransverse solt adjacent the heel seat through which the shank of theheel seat piece extends, thereby interlocking therewith; means securingthe middle sole to the upper; and an outsole secured to the middle sole.

2. In a shoe as set forth in claim 1, the middle sole being thinned atopposite sides of and adjacent to the slot, to allow for the thicknessof the:

shank. r

3. In a shoe as set forth in claim 1, said middle sole being ofthree-quarter length. r

4. In a shoe as setforth in claim 1, said middle sole being of fulllength.

5. In a shoe having an upper provided with a lasted-in heel seat, a heelseat piece secured to the lasted-in portion of the upper and havingashank underlying the arch of the shoe; a middle sole provided with atransverse slot adjacent the heel seat through which the shank of theheel seat piece extends thereby interlocking therewith the front portionof the shank underlying the lower face of the middle sole; meanssecuring the middle sole to the upper; and an outsole secured to themiddle sole.

6. In a shoe as set forth in claim 5, the middle sole being thinned atopposite sides of and adjacent to the slot, to allow for the thicknessof the shank.

7. In a shoe as set forth in claim 5, said middle sole being ofthree-quarter length.

8. In a shoe as set forth in claim 5, said middle sole being of fulllength.

9. In a stitchdown shoe having an upper provided with a lasted-in heelseat, the remaining portion of the upper being outturned adjacent thesole; a heel seat piece secured to the lastedin portion of the upper andhaving a shank underlying the arch of the shoe; a middle sole providedwith a transverse slot adjacent the heel seat through which the shank ofthe heel seat piece extends thereby interlocking therewith; the middlesole being secured to the outturned portion of the upper; and an outsolesecured to the outturned portion of the upper and the middle sole.

10. In a shoe as set forth in claim 9, the middle sole being thinned atopposite sides of and adjacent to the slot, to allow for the thicknessof the shank.

11. In a. shoe as set forth in claim 9, said middle sole being ofthree-quarter length.

12. In a shoe as set forth in claim 9, said middle sole being of fulllength.

13. In a stitchdown shoe having an upper provided with a lasted-in heelseat, the remaining portion of the upper being outturned adjacent thesole; a heel seat piece secured to the lastedin portion of the upper andhaving a shank underlying the arch of the shoe; a middle sole providedwith a transverse slot adjacent the heel seat through which the shankportion of the heel seat piece extends thereby interlocking therewith;the front portion of the shank underlying the lower face of the middlesole; the middle sole being secured by stitching to the outturnedportion of the upper; and an outsole secured by stitching passingthrough the outturned portion of the upper, through the middle sole andthrough the outsole.

14. In a shoe as set forth in claim 13, the middle sole being thinned atopposite sides of and adjacent to the slot, to allow for the thicknessof the shank.

15. In a shoe as set forth in claim 13, said middle sole being ofthree-quarter length.

16. In a shoe as set forth in claim 13, said middle sole being of fulllength.

HENRY ROSENZWEIG.

